The Anatomy of a Great Brake Job!
There is much more to a quality brake job besides throwing pads and rotors on.
In this series of photos and explanations I will detail what I do to ensure the
highest quality work and longest lasting brake systems.
The Brake Doctor
Brakes as delivered to my shop.
Both inside pads worn out.
Premature wear of the inner pads due to
pad being frozen in caliper bracket.
Notice outside pad is still good.
Heavy rust scale below the brake
hardware creates excess force on the
brake pads causing them to stick.
I sandblast all the rust off these surfaces
in a blast cabinet bringing caliper brackets
back to factory specs.
I spray the caliper brackets with an epoxy
primer/paint to prevent future rust.
New stainless steel hardware installed.
Notice caliper pin cleaned and greased. It
is very important to clean and grease pins.
I use top quality ceramic brake pads that
perform better, last longer, run quieter and
produce less dust.
Pads in the brackets ready for installation
on vehicle. A special caliper grease is
used on the hardware to pad contact area.
Rusty hub surfaces can cause new rotors
to not sit flat and produce brake pulsation
This vehicle had new wheel bearings
installed, normally the hub surface is
cleaned with a special tool.
The finished job. Brake pads move smoothly and freely in
the brackets because the fit is perfect. Calipers move freely
because the pins and pin pockets have been cleaned and
This brake job will perform exceptionally well, and will last
for many years. All this for less than you will pay elsewhere!
The pins that the calipers ride on are often
dry and gummed up. This results in the
caliper not moving freely to center itself
over the rotor creating unequal pad wear.
Caliper pins and bolts cleaned.
Pins will be greased with a special caliper